How to Refinish Furniture: Part 3 Removing the Existing Finish
Removing the Existing Finish: Sanding, Stripping, Scraping & Solvents
Once the furniture is clean, inspected, and ready to work on, the next question is usually:
How do I get the old finish off?
And the answer is not always “sand it.”
Sometimes sanding is the best option.
Sometimes chemical stripper saves hours.
Sometimes scraping does most of the work.
And sometimes the smartest thing you can do is leave the existing finish exactly where it is.
At Brickhouse & Baron, we try to match the removal method to the piece instead of forcing every project through the same process.
That matters because furniture can be finished with paint, polyurethane, lacquer, varnish, wax, shellac, or several layers of all of them.
Use the wrong method and you can make a simple project much harder than it needs to be.
Use the right method and the old finish may come off surprisingly quickly.
1. Start by Figuring Out What You’re Removing
Before you start sanding or reaching for stripper, take a minute to look at the existing finish.
Ask yourself:
Is it painted?
Is the natural wood visible?
Does the surface feel waxy?
Is the finish thick and glossy?
Is it flaking?
Does it look like someone refinished it before?
Are there multiple layers underneath?
Older furniture can surprise you.
You might think you're removing one layer of paint and suddenly uncover another color underneath.
Then stain.
Then clear coat.
Then whatever someone used fifty years before that.
That is not unusual.
If you're unsure what the finish is, test a small hidden area first.
Good places include:
Behind a drawer
Under the top
Inside a cabinet
Along the back edge
Underneath the piece
Don't start experimenting right in the middle of the most visible surface.
2. Sanding
Sanding is probably the first method most people think of.
And it absolutely has its place.
Sanding works especially well when:
The existing finish is thin
The surface is already fairly smooth
You only need to dull the finish
You're preparing for primer or paint
You're removing light stain or clear coat
You're working on solid wood
But sanding is not always the fastest way to completely strip furniture.
A thick painted or polyurethane surface can eat through sandpaper quickly and turn into a frustrating mess.
When You Don’t Need to Sand to Bare Wood
This is a big one.
If you're planning to paint the furniture and the existing finish is clean, stable, and well bonded, you often do not need to remove everything down to raw wood.
Sometimes all you need is:
Clean the surface
Repair any damage
Scuff sand
Prime
Paint
That can save hours.
You are usually trying to create a surface the new coating can bond to.
You are not automatically trying to erase every trace of the furniture's previous finish.
When You Do Need More Aggressive Sanding
More sanding may make sense when:
The finish is failing
Paint is peeling
The surface is badly scratched
You're staining the wood
You need to level repairs
The existing coating is uneven
You're trying to expose natural wood
Start with a grit appropriate for the condition of the surface and work progressively finer.
There’s rarely a good reason to start with the most aggressive sandpaper you can find.
A very coarse grit can create deep scratches that take more work to remove later.
3. Chemical Stripping
Chemical stripper can be one of the biggest time-savers in furniture refinishing.
It is especially useful when you're dealing with:
Thick paint
Multiple layers
Heavy polyurethane
Detailed carvings
Moldings
Corners
Veneered surfaces where aggressive sanding is risky
The stripper softens or breaks down the existing coating so it can be scraped away.
That can be much easier than trying to grind through everything with a sander.
How We Approach Stripper
Follow the directions on the specific product you're using.
Different strippers behave differently.
Generally, you'll apply the product, give it time to work, then gently remove the softened coating.
Don't rush it.
If the product needs time, give it time.
Trying to scrape too early often just creates extra work.
Also keep in mind that several applications may be needed if the furniture has multiple layers.
Ventilation Matters
Chemical stripping is one of those jobs where safety needs to move to the front of the list.
Use appropriate gloves.
Wear eye protection.
Use the respiratory protection recommended by the product manufacturer.
Work in a properly ventilated area.
Keep solvents and vapors away from sparks, flames, heaters, and ignition sources.
And always read the product label and Safety Data Sheet.
Furniture isn't worth taking unnecessary risks over.
4. Scraping
Scraping usually works best as part of another method.
For example:
Stripper softens the finish. Scraping removes it.
Or:
Heat softens a coating. Scraping lifts it away.
A good scraper can remove a surprising amount of material.
The key word here is controlled.
Don't dig into the wood.
Let the tool remove the finish instead of gouging the surface underneath.
Use the Right Scraper for the Area
Large flat surfaces are usually easier with a wider scraper.
Smaller details may need:
Smaller scrapers
Plastic scrapers
Detail tools
Picks
Soft brass brushes
Abrasive pads
Be especially careful on veneer.
One aggressive scrape can lift or tear a thin veneer edge.
5. Acetone and Solvent Use
Solvents can be extremely useful during refinishing, but this is where knowing what you're working with becomes important.
Different solvents affect different coatings.
Acetone, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, and other solvents do not all behave the same way.
And stronger is not always better.
Use the product that actually fits the finish you're trying to remove or clean.
Where Acetone Can Help
Acetone is a very strong solvent and can be useful for certain finishes, adhesive residues, and cleanup situations.
It can also soften or damage coatings very quickly.
That makes it useful, but it also means you need to test first.
We recommend using it carefully and in small areas until you know how the surface reacts.
Acetone evaporates quickly and is highly flammable.
Use proper ventilation and keep it far away from ignition sources.
Don’t Mix Solvents Randomly
This is important.
Don't start combining different chemicals because one isn't working fast enough.
Use products as directed.
If one solvent isn't appropriate, stop and switch methods after the surface is safe and dry.
Mixing chemicals without knowing how they react can create dangerous vapors or unpredictable results.
6. Removing Polyurethane
Polyurethane can be one of the more stubborn finishes to remove.
Especially when it's thick.
If you're painting over a stable polyurethane finish, you may not need to completely remove it.
Cleaning, scuff sanding, and priming may be enough.
If you're trying to return the furniture to natural wood, that's a different story.
Then you're likely looking at some combination of:
Chemical stripper
Scraping
Sanding
Solvent cleanup
Why Polyurethane Can Be Frustrating to Sand
Polyurethane can clog sandpaper.
As the finish heats up, it can soften and smear.
That makes sanding slower and can burn through a lot of paper.
If you find yourself changing sandpaper constantly and barely making progress, it may be time to stop and switch to a stripping method.
7. Removing Paint
Paint removal depends heavily on what you're trying to do afterward.
If you're repainting the piece and the paint underneath is solid, you may only need to remove:
Loose paint
Flaking paint
Thick buildup
Rough edges
Failed areas
You can then feather those areas smooth and prime.
If you want natural wood, you'll need to remove much more.
Thick or Multiple Layers of Paint
This is where stripper usually starts to make sense.
Trying to sand through several paint layers can take a long time and create a lot of dust.
Stripper allows you to lift much of that buildup first, then use sanding for cleanup and smoothing afterward.
It's often a much more efficient order of operations.
8. Removing Lacquer
Lacquer behaves differently from polyurethane.
It can sometimes respond quickly to the correct solvent.
That can make removal easier, but it also means you need to work carefully.
A solvent may soften the finish almost immediately.
Test in a hidden area first.
If lacquer is in good condition and you're simply repainting the furniture, complete removal may not be necessary.
Again, it comes back to the same question:
What are you trying to accomplish?
Don't remove more than the project requires.
9. When You Should NOT Strip the Furniture
This is one of the most important sections of this whole guide.
Not every piece needs to be stripped.
Sometimes stripping is simply unnecessary work.
You may want to leave the existing finish in place when:
It is firmly bonded
You are repainting
The surface is already smooth
There is no major peeling
There is no contamination
The existing coating can be properly scuff sanded and primed
If the finish underneath is solid, it can actually become part of your new finishing system.
There’s Also a Preservation Side to This
Some older or historically significant furniture should not be aggressively stripped without careful consideration.
Original finishes can contribute to the character and value of a piece.
If you believe the furniture may be a significant antique, it may be worth researching the piece before removing anything.
Not every old finish is something that needs to disappear.
10. Veneer Precautions
If you're working with veneer, slow down.
This is one of the easiest areas to damage.
Veneer is thin.
Sometimes very thin.
And once you sand through it, the material underneath may be completely different.
Sand Veneer Carefully
Use:
Lighter pressure
Finer grits
Shorter sanding sessions
Frequent inspection
Be especially careful around edges and corners.
Those are usually the first areas to sand through.
If you're using a power sander, let the machine do the work.
Don't lean your body weight into it.
Stripping Can Be Better Than Heavy Sanding
This is one reason chemical stripper can be useful on veneer.
Instead of sanding through a thick finish, you can soften and remove much of that coating chemically.
Then do only the light sanding needed afterward.
That can preserve far more of the original wood layer.
Watch for Loose Veneer
Before using chemicals or sanding heavily, check for veneer that is:
Bubbling
Lifting
Cracked
Loose along the edges
Repair those areas first when possible.
Otherwise, stripper or moisture can get underneath and make the problem worse.
11. Don’t Forget the Details
Flat surfaces are easy.
Corners, trim, carvings, and decorative areas are where finish removal slows down.
This is where smaller tools help.
You may need:
Detail sandpaper
Small scrapers
Abrasive pads
Brushes
Picks
Specialty sanding blocks
Take your time.
Trying to rush details usually leads to rounded edges and damaged trim.
12. Clean the Surface After Removal
Once the old finish is gone, you're not finished yet.
There may still be:
Stripper residue
Dust
Solvent residue
Paint particles
Softened finish in corners
Clean everything according to the products you used.
Then let the furniture dry completely.
Only after that should you move into final surface preparation.
13. Know When to Stop
This is one of the best refinishing habits you can develop.
Sometimes people keep removing material because they think the furniture needs to look absolutely perfect and raw before they can move forward.
It doesn't.
If you're painting, you usually need a:
Clean surface
Stable surface
Smooth surface
Properly prepared surface
That's it.
If you're staining, then yes, exposing clean and consistent wood becomes much more important.
But don't create extra work for yourself just because you feel like you're supposed to strip everything.
A Simple Way to Choose Your Removal Method
If you're not sure where to start, use this general rule:
If you're repainting:
Clean, repair, remove failed finish, scuff sand, prime, and paint.
If you're restoring natural wood:
Strip or sand the old coating until you're back to clean, usable wood.
If the coating is thick:
Strip first, sand second.
If the coating is thin:
Sanding may be enough.
If the piece is veneered:
Use the least aggressive method possible.
If the finish is stable:
You may not need to remove it at all.
Take Your Time With This Stage
Removing an old finish is one of those jobs where impatience can create more work.
Push too hard with a sander and you can damage veneer.
Scrape too aggressively and you can gouge the wood.
Use the wrong solvent and you can turn the surface into a sticky mess.
But if you take a minute to understand the finish and choose the right method, the process becomes much easier.
At Brickhouse & Baron, we don't try to use one method on everything.
The furniture decides the process.
And that's usually the best way to approach refinishing.
Keep Going With the BHB Furniture Refinishing Series!
Before You Refinish Furniture
Start here if you're still deciding whether a piece is worth refinishing and what materials you're working with.
Cleaning & Preparation
Before removing any finish, make sure the furniture is clean, organized, and free from grease, wax, and buildup.
Once the old coating is gone, this is where you'll smooth the surface, feather repairs, remove dust, and get everything ready for primer, paint, or stain.
At Brickhouse & Baron, we believe good refinishing is less about forcing furniture into a process and more about understanding what the piece needs.
Remove what needs to go.
Preserve what can stay.
And give the furniture the best foundation for whatever comes next.
Restore. Refinish. Rehome.
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